New York Restaurant Hitmaker Expands His Empire
New Yorkers pride themselves on being a tough crowd, but chef Kwame Onwuachi won them over with Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi at Lincoln Center. Nearly three years after opening, the restaurant still draws hour-long waits without the hope of a reservation. It became a cultural phenomenon, a rare mix of hype and substance.
Following up such a triumph, Onwuachi opened Dōgon by Kwame Onwuachi in fall 2023, at the Salamander Washington DC hotel. While just 234 miles apart, the restaurants exist in different realms. Where Tatiana bursts with New York energy, Dōgon is elegant and expansive, channeling the serenity of fine dining institutions like Le Bernardin. The vibe is quieter, more reserved.
Some elements carry over — black-veined marble, shimmering chain curtains — but they tell different stories. In New York, the curtains represent childhood memories of Bronx chain-link fences. In D.C., they symbolize the survey chains used by Benjamin Banneker, a free Black astronomer who helped chart the land for the nation’s capital. Onwuachi, too, is a mapmaker — of food, memory, and culture.
Tatiana explored New York’s multicultural street life through food, serving chopped cheese made with rib-eye and curry goat patties. Dōgon, named after the Malian ethnic group believed to be Banneker’s ancestors, has a broader lens. Dishes speak to African heritage, diaspora flavors, and Washington’s significant Ethiopian population. Cornbread gets a layer of silky shiro butter; peanut stew becomes a study in caramelized vegetables and deep spice.
Regional tributes shine. Chesapeake crab is perched on hoe cakes, topped with Ghanaian shito crunch and ají verde, a Peruvian sauce. The elements — fish, heat, crunch, cream — must be combined in one bite to feel the full impact. Each dish is built with precision and intention.
Onwuachi also pays homage to historical Black icons. A lamb dish honors Ben Ali of Ben’s Chili Bowl, a D.C. institution. The meat is slowly cooked, whipped to emulsify fat, compressed, and crisped — served like savory brownies, dense and intense. It’s culinary minimalism with emotional weight, a nod to resilience and community.
Some plates embrace simplicity. Berbere chicken with jollof rice, soupy collards sweetened with cipollini onions, and butter-soaked shrimp in a Louisiana-style sauce speak to comfort and tradition. These dishes don’t scream innovation, but they don’t need to. They’re heartfelt and satisfying.
At times, ambition overtakes clarity. A globe-spanning branzino curry succeeds with ingredients from Ghana to Japan, but other dishes — a Wagyu short rib, a charbroiled oyster — lose their intended flavors. Promised elements like plantain or Ethiopian spice disappear in the mix, raising questions about focus.
Still, Dōgon is a clear marker of Onwuachi’s rise. The decor glows with starry symbolism, echoing Banneker and the Dōgon people’s celestial wisdom. Guests arrive dressed to impress. This is no longer just a chef’s restaurant — it’s a statement of status and vision. With another concept coming soon in Las Vegas, his culinary empire is expanding fast.
The only flaw? Not enough time to savor it. One night, the check came alongside dessert — a nudge to vacate. A shame, because desserts like lemon curd ice cream and golden rum cake deserved slow enjoyment. One showstopper — cherry tea sorbet shrouded in nitrogen smoke — left a literal mark: it burned the reviewer’s tongue. A fitting, if painful, reminder that Onwuachi’s food is meant to be felt.
